Capezzana, Riserva, Carmignano Vin Santo, Tuscany, Italy 2013

Trebbiano (or Ugni Blanc) has two iterations which suggest that it is one of the world’s fine-wine varieties, though both involve transformations so dramatic as to merit the term metamorphosis. Cognac is one -- and Vin Santo the other. The glowing amber wine smells of crystallised fruits, sweet tobacco and warm attics in which fruit is stored -- appropriately enough, since that is how the grapes which make this wine are treated prior to fermentation. On the palate, it is voluptuously sweet and multi-dimensioned, the balance coming from its many aromatic allusions (more crystallised fruit and dried flowers, as well as barleysugar, ginger spice and buttered almonds) and from its subtle oxidative complexities rather than from acidity. Its glycerous texture, volume and wealth give it an easy sippability…with or without a cantucci biscuit to dip as you go.

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