Mandrarossa, Fiano, Terre Siciliane, Sicily, Italy 2021

Drunk as long ago as the thirteenth century (by Emperor Frederic II) yet abandoned and almost extinct by the 1970s, the Campanian variety Fiano's story prefigures that of the Northern Rhone's Viognier. There's a similarity in profile, too, notably the variety's captivating scent, which is much in evidence in the irresistably floral aromas of this Value Best in Show from Siciliy. In the mouth, though, Fiano often has an acidic poise and freshness all of its own, combined with haunting flavours of citrus, nougat and grenadine -- and more of those fresh aromatic flowers. All of those notes are packed exuberantly into this energetic young wine. Submissive and shy it isn't -- but there's Italian class here too.

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