Ciabot Berton, Roggeri, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy 2017

The fiercely warm 2017 vintage was not an easy challenge to surmount, but this articulate Barolo has done just that with a wine which is not merely beautiful and characterful in its own right, but which also conveys the style of the vintage without travesty or falsehood. It is relatively dark in colour, and the aromas are rich, earthy and generous, using oak sagely to lend equilibrium to the boisterous fruits. On the palate, it is intense and deep, structured and detaining, and once again the oak here serves to give the fruit a charm, lift and fragrance it might not otherwise have. It is a wine which will be better in four or five years, but there is still much to enjoy here now on a winter's night with a fine meal.

Back to 2022 DWWA Best in Shows: Top 50 wines to try