Château Haut Breton Larigaudière, Le Créateur, Margaux, Bordeaux, France 2020

The dark black-purple colour of this wine betrays its extreme youth – and it might just set you on your guard in a commune like Margaux, where classical beauty lies not in power and depth, but in grace and fragrance. One sniff, though, should set your concerns aside. These are aromas of alluring charm: deftly defined blackcurrant notes with a sense of fruit-blossom freshness to them, all aerial refinement. On the palate, too, this is lively, deeply fruited wine of dancing energy, backed by tender, flavoury tannins and well-judged, lithe yet ripe acidity. This finely crafted Margaux will certainly profit from a few cellar years to gather and shape its forces, but it has all the shapeliness and poised fruit presence required to drink well now.

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