Tohu, Whenua Matua Chardonnay, Upper Moutere, Nelson, New Zealand 2018

Sauvignon Blanc and latterly Pinot Noir have made much of the running for New Zealand, but the nation’s Chardonnay has been quietly building its successes down the years, and it’s not unusual to hear wine trade insiders confess that it is, in the end, their favourite Kiwi variety. This pure, restrained example from Nelson on the tip of the South Island is fresh and percussive on the nose, with a struck match or flintlock character that is almost more reminiscent of the Loire than of Burgundy. It’s the leanest and coolest of all of our Chardonnay quintet with some salt and chalk dust notes misting the pastel-drawn apple and pear fruits; look out for a nori seaweed finish, too.

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