Château Pierre-Bise, Savennières-Roche aux Moines, Loire, France 2018

The word ‘chameleon’ is often found in close proximity to the name ‘Chenin Blanc’ -- generally alluding to the fact that this polyvalent grape can perform as brilliantly in austerely dry guise as in extravagantly sweet, and with every flavour hue between, too. Not the least of the fascinations of this Savennieres-Roche Aux Moines, though, is the fact that it manages a chameleon performance in a single glass. It’s both fresh, pretty, honeyed and gently amiable -- and yet mysteriously smoky. Once in the mouth, and you’ll find it doughy, almost pastry-rich … yet insistently stony, dark, bitter-edged and almost troubling in its complexities. Pure, commanding and unique, its elevation to Best In Show was never in doubt.

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