Broglia, Derthona Timorasso, Colli Tortonesi, Piedmont, Italy 2018

The name Timorasso often crops up when wine lovers speculate about what Italy’s future great whites might be. This straw yellow wine reveals itself shyly at first -- quiet summer-meadow scents and flavours which mingle fresh apple and bitter lemon. The more time you spend with the wine, though, the more conscious of its qualities you become. There are warmer, almost honeyed notes to the aroma, as well as the warmth of harvested grain. The palate, too, is backed by ample volume, width, dry depths and layered resource: it’s an archetypical ‘slow wine’. By the end, we all wanted more. And we might get it: Derthona (the Roman name for Tortona) has no legal status at present, but may eventually come to signify pure Timorasso from this indigenous variety’s Piemontese heartland.

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