Bodegas Aguiuncho, Mar De Ons Albariño, Rías Baixas, Spain 2020

This wine is the first of no fewer than six Value wines to make it into this year’s top 50 selection, having impressed at the four different stages of scrutiny for its fragrance and its vivacity, its lightness and its elegance, its pungency and its pithiness. This variety’s home is around the northwestern tip of Iberia, though the Portuguese Minho versions are subtly different to those of Galicia. In its exuberance, charm and evident seafood-friendliness, this is a perfect example of the latter. Look out for scents of green apple, quince and grapefruit, while the flavours suggest not just citrus fruits but their peels and skins too. It retains all that aromatic force to the last drop, and leaves the mouth still cleaner than it found it.

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