Premium red Rioja - Decanter Panel Tasting - Part II

Even at £20 and above, no other wine region offers the same quality and diversity of style, age or blend as Rioja, says Pedro Ballesteros Torres MW.

Originally published on March 2017 issue of Decanter magazine. Click to subscribe>>

Despite being the most renowned Spanish wine, few people understand the complexity, quality and diversity in Rioja. The region owes its fame to the same reason that precludes it from being fully appreciated: the vast amount of easy-going, oaky, bland, cheap uniform wines sold as Rioja crianza. These wines are perfect for wine drinkers looking for a simple red. Some consumers whose palates are more mature will soon want to move up the quality ladder; sadly, however, most will not venture any further, thinking erroneously that Rioja has little else to offer. This is a pity, as premium Rioja is a classic fine wine category.

With 50% of wines Highly Recommended and above, and just two failing to hit at least the Recommended mark, this is undoubtedly the most successful Decanter panel tasting of the past decade.

The scores:

191 wines tasted

Exceptional – 0
Outstanding – 8
Highly Recommended – 88
Recommended – 93
Commended – 1
Fair – 1
Poor – 0
Faulty – 0

The judges:

Pedro Ballesteros Torres MW; Sarah Jane Evans MW; Pierre Mansour

This week try 10 premium red Riojas scored over 90 points from one of the most successful Decanter panel tastings.

Click to see Premium red Rioja - Decanter Panel Tasting - Part I

Wines

Valenciso, Reserva, Rioja, Spain 2010 Valenciso, Reserva, Rioja, Spain 2010

Valenciso, Reserva, Rioja, Spain 2010

90

Highly recommended

Leathery oak and tar elements are uplifted with a jab of redcurrant fruit that is almost overripe. It is bursting with flavour, but finishes a touch dry.

Orben, Rioja, Spain 2012 Orben, Rioja, Spain 2012

Orben, Rioja, Spain 2012

90

Highly recommended

Thick and generous, there is layer upon layer of earth and herbs in this wine. One could say it is a little dry and green, but the tannins are ripe and the finish is bold.

La Rioja Alta, 904, Gran Reserva, Rioja, Spain 2007 La Rioja Alta, 904, Gran Reserva, Rioja, Spain 2007

La Rioja Alta, 904, Gran Reserva, Rioja, Spain 2007

91

Highly recommended

Withdrawn at first, this eventually shows its American oak through coconut, vanilla and cedar characters. Despite a humble start, sweet fruit blossoms through backed by lively acidity. Ready now, but still plenty of life left.

Beronia, Gran Reserva, Rioja, Spain 2008 Beronia, Gran Reserva, Rioja, Spain 2008

Beronia, Gran Reserva, Rioja, Spain 2008

91

Highly recommended

A ripe and supple palate is marked by distinctive American oak ageing and feathery tender tannins. Deliciously suave in mouth, it is a jewel of clear Rioja Gran Reserva identity.

Luis Cañas, Selección de la Familia, Reserva, Rioja, Spain 2010 Luis Cañas, Selección de la Familia, Reserva, Rioja, Spain 2010

Luis Cañas, Selección de la Familia, Reserva, Rioja, Spain 2010

92

Highly recommended

The tannins are deliciously tight here, with a fleshy and plump palate on top. It is a very well made new wave style, the Cabernet Sauvignon element not classically Rioja but it undoubtedly adds interest.

Remirez de Ganuza, Fincas de Ganuza, Reserva, Rioja, Spain 2010 Remirez de Ganuza, Fincas de Ganuza, Reserva, Rioja, Spain 2010

Remirez de Ganuza, Fincas de Ganuza, Reserva, Rioja, Spain 2010

93

Highly recommended

There is plenty to like here; fine leathery aromas and red fruits galore. Deft oak ageing enhances its archetypical expression and excellent structure, just with a lightly drying finish.

R. Lopez de Heredia, Viña Tondonia, Reserva, Rioja, Spain 2005 R. Lopez de Heredia, Viña Tondonia, Reserva, Rioja, Spain 2005

R. Lopez de Heredia, Viña Tondonia, Reserva, Rioja, Spain 2005

93

Highly recommended

An excellent old style; tertiary characteristics come through, supported by crisp acidity. Perhaps there is a touch of volatile acidity, but it is extremely enjoyable and finishes with a delicate flourish.

Faustino, Reserva, Rioja, Spain 2008 Faustino, Reserva, Rioja, Spain 2008

Faustino, Reserva, Rioja, Spain 2008

93

Highly recommended

A 2008 Reserva that is still showing promise. It is suave and gentle, the classic red fruits and spicy backbone working together in harmony. It is long and caressing with a warm blossoming finish and a lift of alcohol.

Faustino, Gran Reserva, Rioja, Spain 2005 Faustino, Gran Reserva, Rioja, Spain 2005

Faustino, Gran Reserva, Rioja, Spain 2005

93

Highly recommended

A wine that is evolving slowly, leaving behind a complex savoury character which mingles with red plums, vanilla and full grainy tannins. A benchmark for a long ageing Rioja with quality.

Beronia, III a.C, Rioja, Spain 2011 Beronia, III a.C, Rioja, Spain 2011

Beronia, III a.C, Rioja, Spain 2011

93

Highly recommended

A classy tobacco and cedar nose leads onto a rich palate full of oak and ripe fruit. With its bold expression and structure this will live for plenty more time, reinforced by the fine balance of acidity.