Best of California - red wines under £40

This article first appeared in Decanter magazine’s California supplement 2017. It is currently featured on DecanterChina.com as part of a sponsored campaign with the California Wine Institute.

California is increasingly a source of both quality and affordability. Here, Oz Clarke offers his mantras to heed when seeking out great value wines, then rates the best with Ronan Sayburn MS.

There was a time – not so long ago – when a phone call from Decanter asking if you would like to lead a tasting of good-value wines from California would have had you scrabbling desperately through your diary for excuses to say: ‘Oh, I’m SO sorry...’

The problem was that we were looking in the wrong places and asking the wrong producers for the wrong types of wine. The best-known, market-focused producers in Napa and Sonoma have traditionally either charged hefty prices for wines that might be very good or, less frequently, charged reasonable prices for wines that were outclassed by their rivals from Australia, Chile, New Zealand and much of Europe. These guys are all still there.

It’s just that we don’t have to deal with them any more, because California has changed significantly in less than a decade, and, in the UK, a belief in the quality and affordability of Californian wines is at last taking hold. The fact that we managed to find 40 wines that would really stack up against the opposition speaks volumes. And the fact that eight of our top 20 sell for under £20 is genuinely exciting. There are several reasons for this, which I might suggest as mantras to heed when you are looking for top flavours from the Golden State without paying top dollar.

First, you can discover really cool producers without paying through the nose. The truly hipster wines are not those big beasts from the heart of Napa; they’re either from Napa and Sonoma fringes, or not from these super-famous areas at all. And a lot of the coolest producers are not in it just to make money, so they don’t gouge. We’ve got two wines from Berkeley’s urban winery Broc and two wines from Anderson Valley star Carpe Diem, as well as beauties from Melville, Lioco and M2. Believe me, these are cool dudes.

Second, don’t forget the old-timers – they may not be as fashionable as once they were, but they’ve owned their vines for a long time and can afford to offer wines at a fair price.

We found delightful wines from Edna Valley, Firestone, Louis M Martini, Marimar Estate, Mount Eden, Nalle, Schug, Smith-Madrone, Trefethen and Wente. These have all been stars in their time – and they still can be.

Third, don’t just stick to the regular grapes. California has been rather slow to realise the quality of its old varieties, and slow to plant interesting new varieties to deal with warming conditions. However, it’s happening now, and we found delicious wines from Albarino, Carignan, Marsanne, Muscat, Riesling (it’s not mainstream in California!) and Petite Sirah, plus that old war horse, Zinfandel.

Finally, give the less-faddish, less-pressured vineyard areas a chance. In Napa Valley American Canyon, Oak Knoll and Yountville are much cheaper than the more commonly seen Oakville, Rutherford and Stags Leap. Seek out regions like Lodi – probably California’s best-value address for reds – Livermore, Monterey and the Santa Cruz Mountains. We found appetising wines from all of them. The value is definitely there in California, if you know where to look. And we’ve got 40 prime examples to prove it.

The tasters

Oz Clarke

Clarke is a renowned wine expert, broadcaster and awardwinning writer and author. He is acknowledged as having one of the finest palates of anyone writing about wine today.

Ronan Sayburn MS

Sayburn is head of wines at London private members’ club 67 Pall Mall and chief operations officer of the European Court of Master Sommeliers. He has worked for the Gordon Ramsay group as executive head sommelier.

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Wines

Trefethen, Merlot, Napa Valley, Oak Knoll District 2014 Trefethen, Merlot, Napa Valley, Oak Knoll District 2014

Trefethen, Merlot, Napa Valley, Oak Knoll District 2014

89

Recommended

The nose here is ripe and elegant, a plummy Merlot with a fine palate, if finishing a little short.

CrossBarn by Paul Hobbs, Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, California 2014 CrossBarn by Paul Hobbs, Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, California 2014

CrossBarn by Paul Hobbs, Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, California 2014

90

Highly recommended

Scented and welcoming with a warm kitchen spice core, this Pinot is rich and ripe in an almost blowsy style. There is slightly stewed fruit on the palate.

Hoopla Wines, Cabernet Sauvignon, California 2014 Hoopla Wines, Cabernet Sauvignon, California 2014

Hoopla Wines, Cabernet Sauvignon, California 2014

90

Highly recommended

An elegant Cabernet Sauvignon displaying a seductive redcurrant and blackcurrant nose. There is balance and poise here that should see it through.

Boneshaker, Zinfandel, Lodi 2014 Boneshaker, Zinfandel, Lodi 2014

Boneshaker, Zinfandel, Lodi 2014

90

Highly recommended

A big, blossoming Zin that is blooming with fat fruit. Its lushness is complimented by sweet rosemary and menthol, whilst the bramble tones are underpinned by chocolate and kirsch wrapped in toasty oak.

Vina Robles, Estate Petite Sirah, Paso Robles 2013 Vina Robles, Estate Petite Sirah, Paso Robles 2013

Vina Robles, Estate Petite Sirah, Paso Robles 2013

90

Highly recommended

Strapping tannins battle with indulgent stewed raspberry and red cherry fruit, proving that this style is intense and almost too powerful for its own good.

Nalle, Hopkins Ranch Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County 2014 Nalle, Hopkins Ranch Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County 2014

Nalle, Hopkins Ranch Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County 2014

91

Highly recommended

With simple bright cherry fruit, this Russian River Pinot is ripe and clean with new French oak characters and an elegantly long palate.

M2, emtwopointone Zinfandel, Lodi 2014 M2, emtwopointone Zinfandel, Lodi 2014

M2, emtwopointone Zinfandel, Lodi 2014

91

Highly recommended

A clear and uplifting view of Zinfandel and Lodi, this is full of delightfully pure blackberries and Morello cherries keenly supported by mouth watering acidity.

Quady, Elysium Black Muscat, California 2015 Quady, Elysium Black Muscat, California 2015

Quady, Elysium Black Muscat, California 2015

92

Highly recommended

This is lush and bursting with blackberry and raspberry juice. It is complex with a lifted herbaceous thyme-scented bubble-gum note which flows into violets, hibiscus and sweet peonies. A real potpourri with balancing acidity.

Lioco, Sativa Carignan, Mendocino County, California 2013 Lioco, Sativa Carignan, Mendocino County, California 2013

Lioco, Sativa Carignan, Mendocino County, California 2013

92

Highly recommended

Bright, snappy, scented and packed with the fresh sap of springtime and the mouth-watering tastes of rosehip and pomegranate.

Marietta, Christo, North Coast, California NV Marietta, Christo, North Coast, California NV

Marietta, Christo, North Coast, California NV

93

Highly recommended

Round and delicious, this North Coast Cab is raspberry and blackberry scented with a hint of anise and mint. It is a chunky style that finishes with high alcohol, but it is nonetheless very tasty.

Melville, Pinot Noir, Santa Rita Hills, California 2013 Melville, Pinot Noir, Santa Rita Hills, California 2013

Melville, Pinot Noir, Santa Rita Hills, California 2013

93

Highly recommended

Dry, intense strawberries and red cherries meld together with an almost feral leathery scent. The fruit is taught and modern, and ends on a cool, refreshing, lingering finish.

Louis M Martini, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County, California 2014 Louis M Martini, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County, California 2014

Louis M Martini, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County, California 2014

93

Highly recommended

A delightfully approachable wine full of rich, juicy blackcurrants and underpinned by leaf and undergrowth. It is intensely scented and bright, giving it that highly sought-after freshness.

Jamieson Ranch, Double Lariat Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley 2014 Jamieson Ranch, Double Lariat Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley 2014

Jamieson Ranch, Double Lariat Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley 2014

93

Highly recommended

A cool and elegant style influenced by spearmint and cedarwood on the nose. This is dense and powerful with sweet balanced fruit, integrated oak and a distinctive plum scent.

Broc, Love Red, North Coast, California 2015 Broc, Love Red, North Coast, California 2015

Broc, Love Red, North Coast, California 2015

94

Highly recommended

Fascinating cherry blossom drifts over sour but ripe plums with a redcurrant-bright note at the back. Rustic, sauvage framboise gives that big boost of acidity, with perhaps a little bit of brett underneath.

Carpe Diem, Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley, California 2014 Carpe Diem, Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley, California 2014

Carpe Diem, Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley, California 2014

95

Outstanding

A remarkable mix of deliciousness and elegance, red and black fruits coming through on the nose and lingering throughout the palate; making this a well-balanced wine with great length.