Rioja: best six bodegas to visit
☆ López de Heredia, Haro
One of Rioja’s great old names, a family business which manages a delightful fusion of old (winemaking as it used to be) and new (wines are sold from a space-age shop designed by Zaha Hadid).
www.lopezdeheredia.com
☆ Roda, Haro
Next door to López de Heredia, this shiny modern investment – all glass walls and low-lit walkways – specialises in Tempranillo. Cellars are built into the hillside. Be sure to make room in your shopping bag for the outstanding olive oil.
roda.es
☆ La Rioja Alta, Haro
The third must-see in Haro. Not as picturesque as López de Heredia, perhaps, but nevertheless a worthwhile pilgrimage to the home of one of the region’s outstanding Gran Reservas.
www.riojaalta.com
☆ Dinastía Vivanco, Briones
The wine museum is one of the best of its kind, while the circular restaurant is well worth a visit. After lunch, walk round the pretty village which also houses Bodega Miguel Merino.
www.dinastiavivanco.com, www.miguelmerino.com
☆ Baigorri, Samaniego
All that appears above ground is the glass box imprinted boldly with the company name. Tucked away below is the winery. Not just a design conceit, Baigorri is a regular medal winner.
www.bodegasbaigorri.com
☆ Viña Real, Laguardia
The modern face of CVNE, one of Haro’s 19th-century wineries. The building is circular, vat-shaped, with a striking circular barrel cellar inside. It has great views over Rioja Alavesa, and well-organised tastings.
www.cvne.com
Translated by Sylvia Wu / 吴嘉溦
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