Jefford on Monday
The Gimblett Report
Newly planted wine regions are more like young children than film stars; the vintage is the school report they bring home at the end of each term. The Gimblett Gravels Association circulates its own school report.
“Wine is also a dream”
In fact, that what matters most about most wine is its dream force.
Meeting Sassicaia
Something like this isn’t meant to occur in Europe, where wine has been made for thousands of years...
Change is coming
[Andrew Jefford] In a week’s time, the 2015 Climate Change Conference will begin in Paris: an event of significance not so much for our planet (which has undergone dramatic and sometimes rapid climate change on countless occasions in its past)
A chat with Philippe
It’s steep, La Mouline. The students and I looked down, through the reddening leaves of each individually staked vine in this little 1-ha vineyard, over each succeeding terrace wall, and finally over what appeared to be a leafy cliff edge...
Grange meets La Niña
2011 clipped Australian winemakers’ wings. Australia was in the grip of the most significant La Niña event in its history; it was only South Australia’s warm areas which could compete for inclusion...
She does what she wants
In terms of grape varieties, what exactly would the capricious Virginia like to do? Nothing may be perfect – but Tannat, Nebbiolo and Petit Manseng are beginning to look more assured here
Faithful to the season
The concept of vintage fidelity is an intriguing one. Is it an absolute or a relative ideal? All well and good in a great vintage, of course; we’re all in favour of maximum fidelity then. But what about a dismal vintage?
Journey into forbidden territory
I’ve always tried to taste as a surrogate drinker rather than a vinous policeman, but this episode suggested that I must try harder still...
Subterranean terroir
France, as befits a largely limestone land, is stuffed with deep, dramatic and often beautifully illuminated caves.